Municipal bonds (also known as munis) are issued by a state or local government. Interest income is typically paid out twice a year and is not subject to federal taxes. When an investor purchases a bond issued from his own state, the income is generally not subject to state income taxes.

However, there are a few good reasons to consider buying out-of-state municipal bonds. The first reason is to consider bond quality. Each muni bond is given a quality rating based on the municipality’s ability to make the regular interest payments to investors and return their principal when the term matures. To make this determination, agencies like Moody’s and S&P evaluate the issuer’s debt structure, financial stability and long-term economic prospects.

Credit Quality

The highest Moody’s rating is Aaa (the lowest is C); a rating of Baa3 or higher is considered investment grade. The highest S&P rating is AAA (the lowest is D), and a rating of BBB or higher is considered investment grade. While it’s a good idea to invest in highly rated bonds, note that their yields are inversely related to their quality. In other words, the lower the rating, the higher the interest income. Just be sure to consider that with that higher yield comes a higher risk of the bond issuer defaulting. In today’s economic landscape, an average credit rating of AA/Aa is considered a good balance of risk and bond yield.

Diversification

Second, if the investor holds a portfolio of municipal bonds, owning some from other states can help diversify his bond portfolio. If the investor’s home state has lower-rated bonds, investing in higher-rated bonds from other states can lower his bond portfolio’s quality risk. On the other hand, if the investor’s home state has highly rated bonds, purchasing bonds from states with lower-rated bonds can increase the amount of income his portfolio pays out. Remember, too, that it’s important to consider both the bond yield (also known as its coupon rate) and its issuing state’s taxes in order to come out ahead.

More Choices

Note that both California and New York are high-tax states, so it’s particularly important to consider the tax situation before buying there. With that said, there are also good reasons to buy bonds in these two states because they offer a range of quality municipal bonds. On the flip side, some states have fewer bond options to choose from and a lower risk profile, leaving resident investors with few options regardless of the state tax benefit. Be aware that the majority of muni bonds are rated lower than AA in Illinois, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey.

Tax Considerations

There are seven states that do not impose state income taxes: Alaska, Florida, Nevada, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Washington, and Wyoming. New Hampshire recently phased out its tax on investment and interest income. If a muni bond investor lives in a state with no taxes on income, there is no benefit to limiting his purchases to in-state bonds. In this scenario, it’s a good idea to compare muni bonds from states with high-rated and high-yield bonds to build a diversified bond portfolio while also considering the annual tax bill in each of those states.

If a muni bond investor lives in a high-tax state, such as California with a 12.3 percent tax rate for residents with income in the top bracket (effectively 13.3 percent if you include the additional 1 percent surcharge on individuals earning over $1 million), then it makes sense to buy out-of-state munis to help reduce their tax burden.

Despite these general guidelines, investors should check on the muni bond tax status in their home state before making a purchase. Some states, such as Illinois, require residents to pay taxes on in-state muni bond yields. In this situation, the resident may find better deals with out-of-state munis by comparing coupon rates against the income taxes in those states.

Identity theft is when someone steals your personal information and then uses it to commit fraud. They may access your Social Security or Medicare number, employee ID, utility, credit card or bank account numbers. Once the scammer has this information, he can conduct all kinds of crimes, such as withdraw assets from your accounts, open and close accounts in your name, take out loans or new lines of credit in your name, and even impersonate you if they get arrested – leaving you with a criminal record you may not even know about.

How Do Scammers Steal Your Identity?

Whereas scammers used to rummage through trash cans; today they can hack into your emails, social media, and personal accounts. That’s because we conduct so many of our transactions online now, they don’t even need to be physically present to take something from you.

Today, your data – contact information (e.g., phone number, email, address) and account numbers (e.g., financial, Social Security, employment ID) are all commodities that are bought and sold by both legitimate and illicit entities. Even the most harmless retail outlets solicit information, like your email and phone number in exchange for a 15 percent discount or free shipping. They can use this information for their own purposes and/or sell compiled lists to whoever will pay for it. The more you freely put your information out there, the higher your risk of identity theft or other forms of fraud.

Warning Signs

Paid Actors: Scammers may contact you directly via phone, email or text about a security breach or an offer you can’t refuse. They are professionals – they do this all day, every day, and know how to sound convincing. They may even trick you into giving out personal details (e.g., what’s your husband’s name? Are your parents still alive? How old is your daughter?) without you even realizing it.

Check Your Trust Instinct: Most people have an innate instinct to believe in the good of others, particularly those entrusted with our assets. That’s why when your bank calls, you become immediately concerned and receptive to their efforts to protect you. However, do not trust automatically and always verify.

Move Your Money: Let’s say someone from your bank calls and says they detected an unusually large transaction from your account. They may suggest you call your bank directly to stop the transaction and give you the local number to call. When you call, you may simply reach another scammer. They will often recommend you transfer your assets to a new account and close the old one to prevent fraudulent transactions by having a new account number – which the scammer will also have. If you are asked to move your funds to another account, this is a red flag.

SIM Swapping: If your phone stops working for no apparent reason, it’s possible your SIM card (or e-SIM) has been stolen. This is the memory chip found in phones, tablets, and smartwatches that stores your contact information, text messages, and passwords. It is incredibly valuable to scammers because it can enable them to log into your financial accounts. Even if you use two-factor authentication, he can intercept the code sent to your phone to verify your identity. He can then drain your assets, make unauthorized purchases on your debit and credit cards, and even lock you out of your own social media accounts by changing your passwords. Remember, immediately contact your carrier if your phone stops working. This may indicate that your phone number has been reassigned to another SIM.

How To Stop Today’s Scammers

The quicker you detect the problem, the faster you can shut it down and the less damage can be done to your personal and financial circumstances. Consider these tips:

• Put a freeze on your credit report with each of the three (3) credit reporting agencies – Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. You can unfreeze them any time you apply for new credit.
• Request fraud alerts from any of the three credit bureaus.
• Check your three (3) credit reports and your credit score every year for any changes or unfamiliar accounts.
• Never invest based on the advice of someone you’ve only encountered online.
• Add a trusted contact to your financial accounts, whom your financial firm may contact if you appear to be making unusual transactions.
• Passwords are the bane of modern-day technology. One way to minimize how many you have to keep changing is to add multifactor authentication – a two-step process that requires you to enter a unique code sent via email or text message each time you log in to an online account.
• Monitor your account activity. If you still get statements by mail, be sure to read them every month. If you do all your transactions online, review them at least once a month to ensure there are no unexplained charges.

And finally, if you ever have an encounter with a scammer, share your experience with your friends, colleagues, and family members. This is particularly helpful for older folks, who are less familiar with how technology is used these days. We tend to live in a bubble and assume our assets and our identity are safe since no one we know has ever been victimized. But in fact, some people keep quiet because they are embarrassed. Don’t be. Share your story with friends; spread the word so others are more aware and more vigilant. Fraud and identity theft can happen to anyone.

With a Roth IRA, the owner can make limited contributions each year. In 2025, the limit is $7,000; $8,000 if age 50 or older. Only people who earn less than $150,000 (single filers) or under $236,000 (married filing jointly) can make a full Roth IRA contribution. While contributions do not qualify for a tax deduction, earnings are not taxable once the account has been open for five years. Contributions, which were previously taxed as income, can be withdrawn at any time.

Once you open and contribute to a Roth IRA, the five-year countdown begins before you can take any earnings out tax-free. However, the holding period is actually measured from Jan. 1 of the year you made the first contribution.

For example, if you opened your Roth IRA on Dec. 31, 2024, the holding period backs up to Jan. 1, 2024. Therefore, your holding period is technically only four years instead of five to avoid paying taxes on earnings.

However, it gets even better because you are allowed to make a Roth contribution for the prior tax year up until tax day in April. That means if you open a Roth in April 2025 and designate your contribution for 2024, your holding period is shortened by another four months.

This is why it’s important to open a Roth as soon as possible, even if you cannot contribute a lot of money in the near future. It makes a great strategy for a high school or college student with job earnings to at least open a Roth for future use. While there is no upfront tax deduction, you may withdraw contributions penalty and tax-free at any time – which makes it ideal as both a liquid emergency account as well as long-term savings.

As for withdrawing earnings, the rules are trickier. As far as the IRS is concerned, contributions are withdrawn first and then earnings. Note that when earnings are withdrawn before age 59½, the amount is subject to both taxes and a 10 percent penalty, but there are exceptions that waive the penalty. For example, if your account is less than five years old, you can still withdraw earnings (penalty-free but still subject to taxes) for the following purposes:

• To help pay for a first-time home purchase (up to $10,000)
• To pay for college
• To pay certain emergency expenses
• To pay for expenses in connection with a federally qualified disaster
• To pay expenses related to a birth or adoption
• To pay for unreimbursed medical expenses or health insurance if unemployed
• If you become disabled or are a survivor of domestic abuse

If your account is older than five years, you can avoid both taxes and the penalty if the funds are used to help pay for a first-time home purchase (up to $10,000) or if you become disabled.

After age 59½, there are no taxes and no penalties for any money withdrawn from a Roth IRA for any reason.

Multiple Roths

The same five-year holding period applies to all the Roths you own, with the clock starting at the first contribution to your first Roth. This means that if five years after the date you open your first Roth, you open a new Roth and contribute a bunch of income, you won’t have to wait another five years to tap those earnings tax-free. This perk does not apply to a Roth 401(k) account, which maintains a separate five-year holding period.

Conversion Benefits

When you convert a traditional IRA or 401(k) to a Roth (assuming your plan allows in-service withdrawals or in-plan conversions), you must pay income taxes in the year the money is converted. However, there are some very good reasons to convert:

• Tax-Free Income – By converting assets when you’re still working, you can pay the taxes owed with current income, but from that point on, the Roth IRA will grow tax-free. This is particularly helpful in diversifying your tax liability during retirement if you have other income sources (e.g., pension, brokerage account, Social Security).

• Eliminate RMDs – If you continue working into your 70s, you may continue contributing to your Roth IRA, and assets converted from a 401(k) or traditional IRA are no longer subject to required minimum distributions. This way, your full account balance has the opportunity to continue growing for later retirement and/or for your heirs.

Be aware that converting a taxable retirement account to a Roth IRA begins its own five-year timetable, so convert long before you need to begin withdrawals.